1869, W.H. Logan, “Calton Jess”, in A Pedlar's Pack of Ballads and Songs, Edinburgh: William Paterson, p 437–438, 441:
Although this Ballad is title “Calton Jess” its only evident object is to ridicule the prevailing follies in dress of the time, which may date from 1818 till about 1821. [...]
We find the following in a New York Paper, in the days of Dandyism. ¶ “Dandy-hats. Our City has been much amused with a low tripod-kind of hat, made of fine beaver, and worn by our bang-ups. Some call them ‘the Touch,’ others ‘the Gape and Stare;’ the real name is ‘Bolingbroke.’ It is about six inches in crown, and four in rim, shaped like an inverted cone. It is a real tippy. We yesterday saw one of the fancy, dressed quite unique; blue frock, black silk Wellington cravat, buff waistcoat, cassock pantaloons, high-heel boots, black ribbon and eye-glass, bushy hair frizzed, and surmounted with one of those tippy hats. He looked like an hour-glass, and minced his steps along Broadway in the real Jemmy Jumps style. The ladies were highly pleased, and more glasses were directed towards him than would have been to the Emperor Iturbide, had he just landed; while our Blood, insensible to all curiosity, danced up the street, humming the favourite air of ‘Look, dear ma'am! I'm quite the thing, natius hay, tippity ho.’ ” [...]
My sarks they are baith stout and strong, / Nae pricked up necks and a' that, / Nae Tippy coats wi' swallow tails, / Nor straight laced stays and a' that, / For a' that and a' that, / Their smooth shirt necks and a' that, / Tho' deil a sark be on their back, / Troth! dandies maun na fa' that.
